Champagne wine region - where dreams are Made

I was very surprised by the beauty of the Champagne wine region.

Not that I thought it would be ugly. But everybody always talks about South of France, Tuscany, North Cal.

Having been to those places I can say - Champagne is up there. Even though we visited in November - right in the middle of the flood warning.

Heading to the Champagne wine region I had one goal in mind - to have Champagne come out of my ears.

I love Champagne wine but I rarely drink it - because it’s too bloody expensive.

A decent bottle of Champagne in my neck of the woods starts at $75. That’s at the shop. Restaurant prices begin the climb at $200.

I wanted to get sick of drinking Champagne so that I would no longer feel like a poor kid in a candy store.

Mission accomplished. With gusto.

Is Champagne worth the hype?

Allow me to tell you a little story.

My sister and I once visited a wine fair in Toronto. There were a bunch of traditional sparkling producers from around the world - including Cava from Spain and Franciacorta from Italy.

We aren't very discerning wine drinkers - we tried them all.

One of the Cava producers took out his most prized cuvée for us. It was packaged like a nuclear warhead and indeed was very good.

By the time we made our way to the Champagne section, they only had half a bottle of basic-bitch Champagne left.

They passed it to us - like they would throw a bone to a bunch of hungry dogs.

We tried it. And that Champagne blew everybody else out of the water. Even the warhead Cava was exterminated.

So, yes - Champagne is worth the hype.

Why is Champagne so good?

Some people say - it’s the peculiar chalky soil of the region. It is soft and porous and allows the vine roots to go deep - extracting delicious minerality.

Others insist that the main reason is the very rigid rules that help maintain the quality of the champagne.

Everything is controlled by the syndicate of Champagne wine-growers. And I mean everything - from the time you start the harvest to how much juice you can squeeze.

There is very little room for creative freedom in Champagne. And if you want “Champagne” on your label - you comply.

I will put my 2 cents in. I believe the long ageing process that is customary in Champagne has a lot to do with how good it tastes. It adds another level of complexity.

All Champagnes must spend at least 15 months in the cellar ageing. Most Champagnes get released even later than that.

Champagne weather

Champagne is the northernmost wine region in continental Europe. It gets pretty cold there and plenty wet.

We visited in November. It’s no Siberia, but it does get quite uncomfortable outside.

The producers in Champagne aren’t worried about the cold though.

Au contraire. Global warming is the public enemy number one.

Part of Champagne’s allure is high acidity level and low alcohol content. That’s why Champagne tastes so delicate and goes down easy.

Nowadays, some Champagne wines are approaching 14% alcohol. Mais quel horreur!

30 years ago harvests took place in October. Now - everybody harvests a month earlier - in September.

And since 2003, harvest took place in August - 7 times!

If that’s not a sign of global warming, than I don’t know what is.

Champagne wine region

I honestly thought it would be boring. I expected it to be flat and unattractive - with endless rows of short stumpy vines.

Somebody slap me for being an ignoramus.

Champagne is breathtakingly beautiful. Rolling hills, picturesque villages, abundant forests.

In November, the grapes had been long harvested, but the multi-coloured vine leaves created a tapestry-like vision.

Driving through this landscape was like a dream.

Champagne is peppered with villages. They are all very cute. And very wealthy.

I remember thinking that Tuscany was one of the richest wine regions I had ever visited - perfectly coiffed and manicured.

Well, Champagne is next level.

If you are a grower in Champagne - you have dough.

Our tour guide at Ruinart told us that one of the greatest blessings in life is to be born a daughter of a Champagne grower. You are set for life, she said.

I thought she was joking - until I saw the countryside.

Apparently Champagne commands some of the highest prices for vineyard land in the world. I was told that paying up to 30 million euros per hectare is not unheard of.

Grower Champagne

You'll hear this term a lot in Champagne.

That's what you should be drinking.

Forget Moet, Krug, Veuve - all owned by the same company by the way. You can find these wines in every duty free shop in the world.

Grower Champagne houses are small wine producers that grow their own grapes, make their own wines and typically have a little more care about what they put in the bottle.

Grower Champagne wines are also usually much cheaper. We visited some great producers and paid 30 euros a bottle. Say what?

Down to business - Champagne wines

There are 5 distinct wine subregions in Champagne. But nobody really mentions them.

Everyone talks about the style of Champagne - whether it’s blanc de noirs, blanc de blancs or rosé.

Blanc de blancs Champagne

Blanc de blanc wines are made from Chardonnay grapes. These wines are usually lighter, more delicate, with a more pronounced yeasty/doughy character.

They also showcase Champagne’s signature chalky notes.

Blanc de noirs

Blanc de noirs Champagne wines are made from dark-skinned Pinot Noir and/or Pinot Meunier grapes. These wines have a stronger nose and taste.

They are crunchier, juicier and more flavourful - with red fruit notes, which can be confusing for a white wine.

Rosé Champagne

Rosé in the Champagne wine region is usually a blend of red and white wines.

This method of making a rosé is considered to be a big no-no in most other regions in the world and is often outlawed.

But Champagne gets away with it.

Champagne rosés are lovely - they got a little more punch and flavour than your average blancs de blancs and blanc de noirs.

Pinot Noir and Chardonnay are the main grapes of the region. But Pinot Meunier won us over with its ethereal quality.

Natural Champagne producers like playing around with Pinot Meunier because of its fruity and innocent character.

I will also briefly mention ratafia here. A wonderful drink that is not a Champagne, but is made by almost all Champagne producers. A must try!

Brut vs everything else

Most Champagne wines are Brut - just enough sugar for them not to taste like pure acid. That’s where my comfort zone lies.

Many natural Champagne producers are churning out Extra Brut. Depending on the producer, Extra Brut can be heavenly or an s&m experience.

Extra Brut is wonderful If you are pairing a bottle of Champagne with food - especially rich and greasy food like burgers and fries. It cuts through the grease and dissolves fats in an extra layer of acid.

I’ve seen a few Brut Nature bottles - with zero dosage - at natural wine shops in Champagne. I simply didn’t dare to go there.

Now that I mentioned burgers and fries

Champagne wine region has an obsession with that holy trinity:

Champagne - greasy burger - even greasier fries

Every place we went to had its own variation. Luckily, most places had vegan and gluten free options.

But generally speaking - Champagne goes with everything. A wicked combination of acidity, bubbles and gentle flavours that makes it a perfect match with whatever you're eating.

Even if it's notoriously difficult foods like salads, omelettes, wedding cakes and the most demanding of them all - sushi! You can always rely on Champagne to save the day, or night.

Things to do in the Champagne wine region...

…If you get tired of drinking Champagne. Trust me - it can happen.

Reims Cathedral

The Cathedral in Reims is an absolute must.

I am not religious but the sheer size and majesty of this building filled me with desire to repent for the sins I don't recall committing.

I got neck cramps trying to look up.

The region was severely bombed during the first world war - including the cathedral.

Prominent artists and artisans were involved in the restoration process. The Cathedral features incredible modern stained glass art by Marc Chagall, Brigitte Simon-Marq and Imi Knoebel.

Caves

Champagne wine region has an extensive ancient cave system. Cut out from pure chalk, these caves were used throughout centuries as quarries, shelters and wine cellars.

Nobody knows exactly how large this network of caves is - hundreds of kilometres at least.

I was told that when you are buying a house in Champagne - you have to conduct a study to make sure your property doesn't fall into some cave underneath.

But seriously - caves are everywhere in Champagne. Most Champagne houses, restaurants, wine bars and wine shops have a jaw-dropping cellar.

The Reims market

This is one of the cutest, cleanest and friendliest markets I’ve ever visited in France.

We stayed just around the corner and took full advantage of itl You should too.

Reims vs Épernay - the ultimate question

Took me a long time to figure out in which town to stay in Champagne. General public's opinions are quite divided on the matter. We chose Reims - and I was very happy about it. Here is why:

Épernay - drink and stay, but no play

Épernay is cute, lovely and posh. It is the centre of the large-scale Champagne production.

Avenue de Champagne is like a fashion runway for all major Champagne houses - Champagne’s Rodeo Drive.

If you are a high-roller or a couple on honeymoon - it’s a great place to stay in the Champagne wine region.

But the nightlife is non-existent and you must have reservations for food. Because even in November, most hype places were full to the brim.

Reims - natural wine paradise

We loved Reims - small enough to explore on foot and large enough to have a variety of things to do.

Reims is the best place to discover the alternative side of the Champagne wine region. Natural wine scene in Reims is alive and kicking.

Many places specialize in grower Champagne.

Food is great, people are lovely, natural Champagne is abundant.

Reims is the centre of the universe, as far as I’m concerned.

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